April 18th flew in to the root canal. Brilliant weather! Climbed Ham and Eggs to the main summit on the 20th. Mostly snice, but overall great conditions. There was a good boot track all the way to the summit. We then climbed Shaken not Stirred on the 22nd. Totally classic route! The conditions could not have been better. We traversed in from the side into a really fun mixed pitch that gained the lower snow field. We beefed up and equalized all the single pin raps so it is all good to go. We were alone on both routes. Don't think that will happen for the rest of the season as it seems there are quite a few more parties coming in every day. Shaken is not the greatest route to be stuck behind another party as this is a real funnel for all the debris. Start very early for both routes, especially Ham and Eggs. there was alot of wet snow avalanches coming down the route in the late afternoon, so climb fast and get off the route early. TAT is the shit! They picked us up early so we could enjoy beer and pizza in town. Will surely fly with ya all next year. Paul is the man!
Matt Horner and Marc Waite